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Mark on the steel or file with a Sharpie marker (or other permanent marker with a fine point) the shape you want your knife to be. Make sure you mark the tang as well if you are not using a file. Just trace the one from your file. Remember, an Athame is a double edged blade. With the hacksaw (or a power bandsaw if you have one) cut out your blade and tang, and file off any rough edges. Now start shaping the blade area for sharpness with a grinding wheel, if you have one. If not, then use the files, rough file first. Finish it off with two grades of wet and dry sandpaper. If your blade is being made from a file, make sure to remove the grooves from all surfaces.
Now you have to harden and temper it. You ask "but didn't we take the temper out of it?" Yes, but your blade will not hold an edge if we dont harden and re-temper it. Heat up the blade again, this time making it red hot, not dull red. Then take hold of it with a pare of pliers (the longer the handle, the better) and immerse it into a bucket of tepid (warm) water. If the water is cold, it will crack. Let it cool, then clean it with wet and dry sandpaper. Youv'e just hardened your blade.
Now you need to temper it. Again, reheat it. Again immerse it in tepid water and clean it with wet and dry sandpaper. Next, heat up again to a dull red, this time keeping a good eye on it as it changes color. It will get a bright, light straw color, then a medium straw color.Immediatly dunk it into the tepid water and let it cool off. Do not allow it to go past the straw color, it will go blue, then purple and green. Keep an eye on the tip, as this will change color first. Keep the point furthest away from the heat to allow an even heating.
To make the handle, take two rectangular pieces of wood and trace the tang onto each of these. Chisel out the marked sections one half the thickness of the tang. After this is done, the two pieces should lay together perfectly with the tang between them. When they fit together well, roughen the inside wood and spread a good epoxy resin glue all over, including in the tang grooves. Put the tang in it's grooves, press the two halves together, and clamp. Clamp slowly to give the glue a better spread. Leave clamped for three days.
When unclamped, draw the shape of the handle you desire, then cut or carve it out. To finish, sand it down with a coarse sandpaper, then again with a fine sandpaper. then paint or stain the handle.




Try to find a suitable piece of steel. If one isnt available then a file or chisel will work just as well. Whatever steel you have it is going to be hard so the first job is to soften it. Heat the steel till it is a dull red. If you have no other way then lay it on the burner of a gas or electric stove. You may have to leave it there for a few hours with the burner turned on high. It will eventually turn a dull red color. Once it has reached that color, turn off heat and let it cool down naturally. Now it will be softer and easier to work with.
Mark on the metal with a pencil the shape you want it be. With a powered bandsaw, or a simple hack saw, cut out the profile and file off any rough edges. Then start shaping the blade for sharpness. A grinding wheel would come in handy here, though you can work with roughand smooth files.The blade is going to be double edged so you are aiming for a diamond shaped cross section. Finish off the blade with two types of wet and dry paper.
Now your blade will need to be tempered. Heat it up again this time until its red hot.Then take hold of it with a pair of pliers and plunge into a bowl of TEPID water or oil, not cold or the blade will crack. Allow it to cool off then clean i with wet and dry paper.
Next, to temper it, reheat the blade to a dull red again. Again plunge it point down, into TEPID water or oil, moving it up and down in the liquid. Clean it with wet and dry paper then heat it up again. **WATCH THE BLADE CAREFULLY THIS TIME AS IT CHANGES COLORS** It will go to a bright, then light, straw color, then to a medium straw color. Immediately plunge the blade into water and let it cool off. (DON'T let it get past the straw color; it would go on to blue, purple, then green) Watch the point as it will change colors first. At the first sign or of "blueing" on the point, plunge it back into the water. **NOTE** The colors will appear quickly so keep the point furthest from the heat.
Once the blade is cold take it outside and plunge it into the ground a few times (there is a method to the madness) Now you have:
Moved the blade through the AIR,
heated it with FIRE,
plunged into WATER,
and showed to the EARTH.
For the handle, take 2 pieces of wood. Draw around the tang, the handle part of the blade, on each of the pieces of wood. Then chiselout the marked sections, each one to half the thinkness of the tang. When finished, the 2 pieces of wood should lay together perfectly with the tang inserted between them. When youare satisfied they fit well, slightly roughen the inside of the wood and then spread a good epoxy resin glue all over. Put the tang in place, press the two wooden handle halves together and clamp. When clamping, put the pressure slowly so as to give a better "spread" to the glue. Leave clamped for AT LEAST 3 days.
When removed from the clamp, draw a profile of the handle you want on the wood and start cutting and carving it to shape.
Some traditions call for certain signs to be carved on the handle. Even if yours doesn't, you may wish to decorate it with some. I put my craft name and monogram on mine. You may also wish to etch something on the blade as well.
Melt some beeswax and cover the blade with it. Then cut into the wax with sharp inscribing tool, A nail will do the trick, in the way you want the inscription to look. Make sure that you go right through the wax to expose the blade. Then pour on either sulphuric acid, iodine, or a similar etching agent. Leave on for a few minutes then rinse off by holding under running water. The acid will eat into the metal while the wax is protecting the rest of the blade. IT WOULD BE WISE TO PRACTICE THE ETCHING ON A SCRAP PIECE OF METAL FIRST SO YOU CAN DETERMINE THE AMOUNT OF THE TIME TO LEAVE THE ACID ON BEFORE FLUSHING IT AWAY.

How to make your own GEL CANDLE

STEP #1 You will only need a few simple tools, of which all can usually be found in your kitchen. A metal spoon, a scale, a measuring cup, and a crock pot with a thermostat or a stovetop pan and a thermometer.

STEP #2 Ingredients: Mineral Oil, CP9000 Resin, Wick and base, Fragrance and color. (optional). Measure ingredients as follows. 2 Fluid Cups mineral oil, 25 Grams CP9000 Resin. Mix and allow to set at room temperature for 1 hour, stirring occasionally

STEP #3 Begin heating ingredients slowly bringing to 200-210 degrees F and hold at this temp for 1 hours or until the gel is completely smooth flowing. The consistency of corn syrup.

STEP #4 Be sure to never let the temperature exceed 230 degrees as this may scorch the gel. If gel does scorch it is worthless and no amount of fragrance can save it. Give up and start over.

STEP #5 Stir the mixture often while cooking to to assure proper mixture. If you don't have a crock pot be sure to watch your temp on a thermometer. The gel may smoke slightly during the process, this is not a cause for alarm unless smoke is excessive.

STEP #6 Just before you are ready to pour add fragrance to suit (do not exceed 3%) as this will lower your flash point to an unsafe level. Color should be added now if desired.

STEP #7 Dip wick base in the gel yjen place in bottom of container and hold for a few seconds to allow gel to adhere to the glass. This will hold your wick in place during pouring.

STEP #8 Pouring the gel is a breeze. You can get different effects from different pouring temps. 180-190F lots of bubbles 190-200F few large bubbles 200-210F almost no bubbles 210-220F Bubble Free. ( to insure bubble free candles preheat glass for 10 minutes in preheated oven at 150F

STEP #9 To embed objects wait 2-5 minutes after pouring and drop into place. Only use glass or ceramic nonflammable objects. Marbles work great aquarium rocks. We know that you guys are creative, that's while your here at the largest craftstore on earth.



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